Charmed by a Taste of Greece

Acropolis

The idea of heading south to Greece for a little warmth and sunshine was born during the cold spell at the end of 2009, when we hatched the idea of a two week break when those days were short, and the cold was really penetrating the bones. Plans were soon made and on Wednesday 17th February we flew from Dublin, via Zurich to Athens. Our flight took us down the east coast of Ireland so it was rather fun to see the Raven Nature Reserve and North Slob bathed in sun before heading east. 6 minutes after leaving the Irish coast our aircraft gave an amazing lurch and roll, so much so that my GPS, which I had on following our route blipped out and somehow lost all the maps installed (these were easily restored on my return to Ireland and it did not affect the positional readings taken over the two weeks – but I had not seen that happen before). Anyway shortly after this uncomfortable experience the Captain came onto the intercom and explained that we had hit vortex of another aircraft……. We finally arrived in Athens just after midnight and headed to the Athens Centre Square Hotel acs@athenshotelsgroup.com (N37 58.8 E023 43.6). This hotel comes thoroughly recommended (we spent three nights and were delighted with the rooms and the friendly staff – nothing too much trouble) – we were on the top floor and spent that first evening watching the night life from a superb advantage spot – and there was plenty of 'wild-life' visible with the red light district in full swing from after midnight onwards (it did not impinge in any way on the hotel). It was awesome to enjoy the 'totally stunning' historical buildings of Athens lit up – the Parthenon and Temple of Athena Nike only a stone's throw from the hotel. Of course when in Greece it isn’t just the language difference from our own, but also their written word uses the Greek (Cyrillic) Alphabet (upper and lower case shown below). Signs throughout the Country had liberal translations and therefore there were no basic difficulties in finding what was needed and required.

Epidacros

Α  Β  Γ Δ  Ε  Ζ  Η   Θ  Ι  Κ  Λ  Μ  Ν  Ξ  Ο  Π  Ρ  Σ  Τ  Υ  Φ  Χ  Ψ  Ω

Corn Bunting

α  β  γ  δ  ε  ζ  η  θ  ι  κ  λ  μ  ν  ξ  ο  π  ρ  ς  σ  τ  υ  φ  χ  ψ  ω

Common Asphodel

However it is not for this holiday account to delve into the pronunciation and uses of this fascinating language and culture – mind you great fun trying to work out what was going on - there are many publications, CDs, DVDs, and web sites that explain and teach the workings of this lovely language.

The following morning, Thursday 18th we were soon up and went ‘walk about’ in the city, eventually ending up in Piraeus Port (on the Saronic Gulf) for a meal and walk about. Talk about millionaires play toys – the boats and shear amount of them was positively vulgar – opulence in the extreme. The bustle of Athens City is certainly hectic. The city is just full of motorbikes and street stalls – there is a large numbers of street selling ongoing with all sorts of gimmicks on sale – tourists are well catered for and their Police are everywhere – with gatherings of police officers – as many as a dozen on some corners – yes there is the unrest with the strikes etc ongoing, though we did not see any demonstrations. We spent Friday 19th around the main historical sites in Athens – Parthenon (on the Acropolis), the Erechthion – most impressed with the caryatids (five supporting columns) – the sixth is in the British Museum – definitely a cheek of the British Government – it should be in Athens and returned to the Greek People. Many more amazing places were all visited during the course of the day and in the evening we joined the crowds in Monastiraki Square and enjoyed the busker (who was also joined by howling dog – caused quite a stir). Annie danced for a while with some of the crowd. On the Saturday we checked out from Hotel and headed to the airport to collect a car. From there we headed to Kilada, a 3 hour drive south west of Athens. We stopped at the Korinth Canal for lunch – an amazing engineering feat and were at Doroufi (where we were staying) by 5.15pm. The visibility was murky all the way down – Apparently caused by a Sahara sand storm. It was windy overnight and that blew the sandstorm away. Sunday 21st was spent exploring locally and visiting the village of Kilada. There was a complete change in weather on the Monday – very still with 7/8 cloud much of the day. Mild and beautiful with stunningly clear visibility. We headed for Poros Island taking a water taxi from Galatas to the island and lunched there – a walk round the sea front – lots of fishing boats, men repairing nets – peaceful – all very peaceful. We also visited a number of wetland sites through the course of the day.  Poros Island is a major ferry port with the catamarans and boats from Athens calling much of the time. Our last wetland of the day was the Psita Reserve where we enjoyed Greater Flamingos – an excellent surprise. Tuesday the 23rd we spent locally visiting various beaches and reserves with a late afternoon leisurely wander round the harbour and adjacent area – is that limestone pavement by the sea? – On Wednesday 24th we headed over to Nafplio, stopping at the Mycenaean Bridge (1200BC) – it was stunning and had some lovely flowers around the general area. We stopped along the shore just outside the city and were rewarded with waders and flamingos everywhere – a most productive stop. Our destination was the Paronas reed-bed Reserve where we had some great birding. Temperature during the day was showing 28C – and that was not the hottest day of the holiday. On Thursday 25th we visited Ermioni for a wander round the market and had lunch – then a drive over the mountains. On Friday 26th and Saturday 27th we again visited local reserves and coast lines enjoying the ambience of the general area. Sunday 28th was spent at Epidavros – visiting the open air Theatre, Stadium and archaeological sites followed by a leisurely drive back to Kilada. What a stunning experience – entry today, to Epidavros, was free which was an added bonus (Heritage Day?). Apparently the word Stadium comes from the standard length that Stadiums were built at in early years – 'Stade' being a measurement of 600 feet and 'ion' meaning gathering – an interesting anecdote.  On Monday 1st March we went over to Porto Heli and from there went over to the Franchti Caves opposite Kilada for the afternoon and early evening – it was a super afternoon with lots of wildlife surprises. We returned to the Franchti Cave Reserve on Tuesday 2nd for a couple of hours and then spent the rest of the day locally. Our away break was all to quickly over and Wednesday 3rd found us up early heading back to Athens Airport and then home to Ireland via Frankfurt – What a great break away. Temperatures whilst away were between 24C and 32C, it rained once during the night, the only murky day was on our way down from Athens – the people we met were just delightful and really friendly – we also found people were so helpful with plenty of time to talk, explain and assist – something akin to the Ireland of 25 years ago.  Downsides – well there is an awful lot of litter everywhere – mind you free litter collection from communal litter bins is definitely an excellent idea – so why is there so much litter strewn about and dumping over any available hillside? – That was a real shame. The vehicle drivers are crazy and decidedly scary – health and safety? I don’t think they have heard of it – and yes it is a smoking culture so they do smoke in public buildings, restaurants etc. I would also seriously worry about what the ‘hunters’ are shooting - and they were still shooting in early March – What is going on? Upsides – beautiful landscape, stunning historical sites, gorgeous weather, delicious foods – cheeses, salads, olive oils and yogurts - and the friendliness and helpfulness of everyone we met was OUTSTANDING – something akin to Ireland 30 years ago, certainly very noticeable. I must say, I can’t wait to get back to see this beautiful Country again. Many, Many thanks to the new found friends we met and made.

WILDLIFE LISTS

Wednesday 17.02.10 BIRDS: Robin (singing at 1am).

Thursday 18.02.10 BIRDS: Cormorant; Yellow-legged Gull; Black-headed Gull; Feral Pigeon; Collared Dove; Magpie; White Wagtail; Blackbird; Mistle Thrush; Blackcap; Sardinian Warbler; Chiffchaff; Starling; House Sparrow. INVERTEBRATES: Small White; Cricket; Humming-bird Hawk-moth.

Friday 19.02.10 BIRDS: Yellow-legged Gull; Feral Pigeon; Collared Dove; Spotted Flycatcher; White Wagtail; Song Thrush; Blackbird; Sardinian Warbler; Blackcap; Goldcrest; Magpie; Chaffinch;  Serin; Starling; House Sparrow; Ring-necked Parakeet. INVERTEBRATES: Large White; Small White; Wall Brown; Red Admiral; Painted Lady; Humming-bird Hawk-moth; Pine Processionary Moth - caterpillars (Thaumetopoea pityocampa).

Saturday 20.02.10 BIRDS: Kestrel 3; Yellow-legged Gull 30+; Little Owl 3; Scops Owl 2; Feral Pigeon 100+; Collared Dove 12; Crested Lark 20; White Wagtail 8; Robin 3; Stonechat 4; Song Thrush 2; Meadow Pipit 2; Blackbird 2; Blackcap 1; Chaffinch 5; Linnet 8; Goldfinch 8; Serin 6; Hooded Crow 6; Magpie 10; Jay 4; Starling 30+; House Sparrow 80+. INVERTEBRATES: Small White 6; DEAD: Hedgehog 1; Fox 1; Pine Marten 1.

Sunday 21.02.10 BIRDS: Cormorant 2; Yellow-legged Gull 80+; Black-headed Gull 160; Sandwich Tern 1; Little Owl 3; Scops Owl 2; Feral Pigeon 40+; Collared Dove 6; Crested Lark 80+; Skylark 5; White Wagtail 66+; Grey Wagtail 1; Meadow Pipit 8; Spotted Flycatcher 2; Wren 1; Dunnock 2; Black Redstart 28; Whinchat 5; Stonechat 20; Robin 1; Blackbird 2; Song Thrush 4; Blackcap 5; Sardinian Warbler 6; Chiffchaff 2; Willow Warbler 2; Chaffinch 100+; Greenfinch 12; Goldfinch 12; Linnet 8; Serin 20+; Great Tit 1; Corn Bunting 8; Cirl Bunting 2; Hooded Crow 5; Raven 2; Magpie 12; Jay 10; House Sparrow 80+. INVERTEBRATES: Small White 6; Green-veined White 1; Clouded Yellow 1; Painted Lady 2.

Monday 22.02.10 BIRDS: Little Grebe 4; Great Egret 2; Grey Heron 3; Little Egret 12; Greater Flamingo 21; Cormorant 8; Little Cormorant 1; Shag 2; Coot 1; Common Buzzard 1; Long-legged Buzzard 1; Marsh Harrier (seen catching a snake) 1; Sparrowhawk 2; Lesser Kestrel 1; Common Sandpiper 1; Yellow-legged Gull 350; Black-headed Gull 60; Slender-billed Gull 3; Sandwich Tern 8; Little Owl 3; Scops Owl 1; Feral Pigeon 40; Wood Pigeon 2; Collared Dove 20; Stock Dove 4; Turtle Dove 1; Skylark 10; Crested Lark 40; Meadow Pipit 9; White Wagtail 100+; Grey Wagtail 1; Spotted Flycatcher 2; Wren 3; Robin 6; Stonechat 40; Black Redstart 100+; Blackbird 4; Song Thrush 5; Cetti’s Warbler 2; Sedge Warbler 2; Sardinian Warbler 10; Orphean Warbler 3; Blackcap 12; Chiffchaff 3; Great Tit 2;  Chaffinch 80+; Linnet 6; Goldfinch 35; Greenfinch 12; Serin 8; Starling 12; Hooded Crow 8; Magpie 20: Jay 6; House Sparrow 200+. INVERTEBRATES: Red Admiral 1; Clouded Yellow 1; Small White 50+; Wasp 1. DEAD: Pine Martin 2; Smooth Snake 1; Snake sp. taken by Marsh Harrier.

Tuesday 23.02.10 BIRDS: Cormorant 1; Common Buzzard 2; Kestrel 1; Yellow-legged Gull 85; Black-headed Gull 75; Scops Owl 2; Little Owl 3; Collared Dove 12; Feral Pigeon 26; Kingfisher 1; Skylark 8; Crested Lark 22; Grey Wagtail 1; White Wagtail 35; Meadow Pipit 16; Whinchat 1; Stonechat 14; Black Redstart 18; Wren 3; Robin 12; Blackbird 3; Song Thrush 4; Great Tit 5; Sardinian Warbler 11; Orphean Warbler 1; Blackcap 5; Chiffchaff 7; Chaffinch 60; Goldfinch 18; Greenfinch 8; Serin 14; Jay 14; Magpie 8; Hooded Crow 5; Corn Bunting 5; Starling 6; House Sparrow 70+. MAMMALS: Bat sp. 1. INVERTEBRATES: Small White 25; Clouded Yellow 5; Cleopatra 1; Red Admiral 2; Painted Lady 1; Pine Processionary Moth - Caterpillars (60 in one string); 6-spot Ladybird 1; Beetle sp (photographed). PLANTS identified. Common Grape Hyacinth; Spanish Iris; Star-of-Bethlehem; Common Asphodel.

Wednesday 24.02.10 BIRDS: Great Crested Grebe 9; Little Grebe 19; Cormorant 5; Great Egret 8; Little Egret 6; Grey Heron 32; Greater Flamingo 12; Mallard 14; Wigeon 24; Shoveler 5; Teal 100+; Pintail 2;Shelduck 2; Coot 280; Moorhen 80+; Water Rail 4; Buzzard 6; Kestrel 1; Marsh Harrier (♀) 1; Hen Harrier (♂) 1; Snipe 5; Grey Plover 4; Kentish Plover 18; Little Ringed Plover 1; Curlew 10; Redshank 9; Greenshank 1; Dunlin 78; Knot 1; Little Stint 1; Yellow-legged Gull 180+; Black-headed Gull 72; Slender-billed Gull 3; Little Owl 2; Scops Owl 1; Wood Pigeon 2; Feral Pigeon 40+; Collared Dove 26; Kingfisher 1; Skylark 5; Crested Lark 8; Meadow Pipit 8; White Wagtail 12; Stonechat 12; Redstart 1; Black Redstart 25; Blackbird 5; Song Thrush 5; Blue Rock Thrush 2; Robin 11; Sardinian Warbler 6; Blackcap 4; Reed Warbler 1; Cetti’s Warbler 9; Chiffchaff 5; Great Tit 9; Bearded Reedling 1; Chaffinch 30+; Greenfinch 12; Goldfinch 5; Serin 58; Linnet 12; Cirl Bunting 1; Raven 6; Magpie 38; Hooded Crow 18; Jay 18; Starling 16; House Sparrow 80+. INVERTEBRATES:  Small White 50+; Cleopatra 1; Red Admiral 3; Painted Lady 3; Clouded Yellow 6; Buff-tailed Bumblebee 1; Damselfly sp (photographed). DEAD: Badger 1; Fox 1; Pine Martin 5. PLANTS identified: Common Asphodel; Grape Hyacinth; Spanish Iris; Star-of-Bethlehem; Mallow.

Thursday 25.02.10 BIRDS: Little Grebe 3; Little Egret 3; Great Egret 2; Grey Heron 2; Cormorant 3; Shag 2; Buzzard 2; Kestrel 1; Yellow-legged Gull 35; Black-headed Gull 9; Wood Pigeon 1; Feral Pigeon 60; Collared Dove 18; Little Owl 4; Scops Owl 2; Kingfisher 1; Crested Lark 12; White Wagtail 80; Grey Wagtail 3; Spotted Flycatcher 1; Stonechat 20; Black Redstart 45; Robin 6; Blackbird 5; Song Thrush 6; Blue Rock Thrush 1; Great Tit 6; Sardinian Warbler 6; Blackcap 12; Chiffchaff 9; Chaffinch 45; Greenfinch 12; Goldfinch 20; Serin 40; Corn Bunting 3; Raven 23; Hooded Crow 10; Magpie 30; Jay 25; House Sparrow 80+. MAMMALS: Bat sp. INVERTEBRATES: Small White; Red Admiral; Small Tortoiseshell; Humming-bird Hawk-moth; Cricket (singing in evening).

Friday 26.02.10 BIRDS: Great Egret 2; Little Egret 1; Chukar 2 (H); Buzzard 6; Yellow-legged Gull 35; Black-headed Gull 45; Little Owl 10; Scops Owl 1; Collared Dove 12; Feral Pigeon 45; Kingfisher 1;  Crested Lark 7; White Wagtail 18; Grey Wagtail 1; Stonechat 3; Black Redstart 16; Dunnock 1; Robin 5; Blackbird 5; Song Thrush 6; Great Tit 9; Blue Tit 1;  Blackcap 12; Sardinian Warbler 8; Chiffchaff 5; Chaffinch 45; Greenfinch 18; Goldfinch 35; Serin 20; Magpie 18; Jay 20; Hooded Crow 55; Corn Bunting 1; House Sparrow 80+. MAMMALS: Bat sp. INVERTEBRATES: Cleopatra; Small White; Clouded Yellow; Cricket (singing in evening).

Saturday 27.02.10 BIRDS: Buzzard 2; Yellow-legged Gull 12; Collared Dove 6; Little Owl 3; Scops Owl 1; White Wagtail 3; Great Tit 5; Robin 2; Black Redstart 4; Sardinian Warbler 3; Blackcap 1; Chiffchaff 2; Chaffinch 8; Goldfinch 11; Serin 6; Magpie 5; Jay 4; House Sparrow 15. INVERTEBRATES Small White.

Sunday 28.02.10 BIRDS: Cormorant 1; Buzzard 6; Sparrowhawk 1; Hen Harrier 1 (♂); Yellow-legged Gull 5; Black-headed Gull 50+; Little Owl 9; Scops Owl 2; Dunnock 1; Robin 6; Stonechat 6; Black Redstart 8; Blackbird 3; Song Thrush 3; Blue Rock Thrush 1; Great Tit 12; Wood Pigeon 2; Feral Pigeon 2; Collared Dove 30+; Crested Lark 15; Meadow Pipit 5; White Wagtail 30; Blackcap 30+; Sardinian Warbler 10; Willow Warbler 2; Chiffchaff 12; Chaffinch 30+; Goldfinch 30; Greenfinch 4; Serin 20;  Hooded Crow 30+; Raven 1; Jay 20; Magpie 30; Starling 9; Corn Bunting 1; House Sparrow 100+. DEAD: Pine Martin dead 2. INVERTEBRATES: Small White; Cleopatra 18; Clouded Yellow; Red Admiral; Moth sp. (Tiger type); Moth sp.; 7 spot Ladybird.

Monday 01.03.10 BIRDS: Cormorant 3; Buzzard 6; Marsh Harrier 1; Yellow-legged Gull 6; Collared Dove 12; Feral Pigeon 7; Little Owl 6; Scops Owl 1; Crested Lark 20; White Wagtail 7; Grey Wagtail 2; Wren 1; Black Redstart 7; Stonechat 6; Robin 6; Blackbird 5; Song Thrush 3; Sombre Tit 2; Blackcap 1; Sardinian Warbler 8; Chaffinch 60; Hawfinch 1; Goldfinch 16; Linnet 3; Serin 18; Cirl Bunting 1; Hooded Crow 11; Raven 2; Magpie 5; Jay12; House Sparrow 80+. MAMMAL & REPTILE DEAD: Striped Dolphin 1 (position: N57 25 605 E023 08 028 – full length 148cm); Loggerhead Turtle 1 (position: N57 25 610 E023 08 030 – full length 112cm carapace length 69cm width 58cm). INVERTEBRATES: Small White; Large White; Clouded Yellow 4; Green-striped White 2; Red Admiral; Southern Festoon 1; Wall Brown 3. Cricket (singing in evening).

Tuesday 02.03.10 BIRDS: Buzzard 4; Yellow-legged Gull 9, Black-headed Gull 15; Little Owl 6; Scops Owl 3; Collared Dove 15; Feral Pigeon 4; Crested Lark 11; Meadow Pipit 14; Grey Wagtail 1; Black Redstart 12, Stonechat 4; Whinchat 2; Robin 9; Blackbird 5; Song Thrush 4; Blackcap 4; Sardinian Warbler 8; Chiffchaff 1; Great Tit 9; Chaffinch 22; Greenfinch 3; Goldfinch 12; Linnet 5; Serin 18; Cirl Bunting 1; Hooded Crow 8; Magpie 6; Jay 20+ (one was seen/heard mimicking a Buzzard – never knew that they mimicked before); House Sparrow 30+. MAMMAL & REPTILE DEAD: Loggerhead Turtle and Striped Dolphin. MAMMAL: Bat sp.. INVERTEBRATES: Cleopatra; Clouded Yellow; Large White; Small White; Red Admiral; Painted Lady; Wall Brown; Cricket singing..

Wednesday 03.03.10 BIRDS: Buzzard; Kestrel; Scops Owl; Little Owl; Collared Dove; Crested Lark; Stonechat; Black Redstart; Blackbird; Blue Rock Thrush; Chaffinch; Magpie; Hooded Crow; House Sparrow. DEAD: Hedgehog 1; Fox 2; Pine Martin 2.