South Georgia and the White Continent

King Penguin face

The Cruise was from the 24th January 2009 to the 7th February 2009 on Spirit of Adventure (Saga Shipping). Well, after such a superb 'First of the Season' Cruise - could we top it... Of course - though it is all relative - as that is what the Antarctic Summer Season Cruises are all about. Experiencing and enjoying this wonderful Continent. No two cruises are ever the same and all have their own unique experiences that always seem to equal and/or top ones last experience. And we certainly had some STUNNING EXPERIENCES.....

We set sail for Antarctica at 6.25pm on Friday 23rd January and enjoyed stunning weather as we travelled down the Beagle Channel towards the South Atlantic. There was a superb display of Magellanic Penguins, both on shore and in the water, at Harberton just before dark - yes another super cruise was inevitable. Saturday 24th started off in the same mould with a superb flying display by a Light-mantled Sooty Albatross from 5.45am to after 6am. And the day just got better with plenty to see and enjoy. Sunday 25th started off a little more slowly due to there being thick fog. Fascinating actually hearing Whales blowing, but not being able to see them - mind you it did clear just before we headed through Neptune's Bellows into Deception Island and our first stop, Whalers Bay. Magical being able to get up to Neptune's Window and seeing the view that Nathanial Palmer had of the Antarctic Continent way back in 1820. It was a great visit with plenty to see and enjoy. Those Cape Petrel nests - with occupants being mainly a large, downy grey chick (with often a parent) - wonderful to be able to see them from their height as opposed to looking up from the base of a cliff. After our landing we sailed for Paradise - over a hundred nautical miles further south. Monday 26th found us cruising from the Gerlache Straight, through the back into Paradise Harbour and to Waterboat Point. Weather was a bit damp, tide very high, but it was a great visit - fascinating to see one Gentoo nest with three young (almost a shame that one could not monitor the nest to see if it was a genuine 3 chick nest - whether it would make it, or what. Certainly very interesting. After leaving Waterboat Point we headed south and on this occasion were able to head through the Lemaire Channel. A Zodiac cruise then took place along side Pléneau Island through the Iceberg Graveyard. The ice was stunning, though it was rather damp with some rain about. As we left the area we reached our 'furthest south' for the Cruise. Tuesday 27th found us just outside Port Lockroy with a stunningly beautiful and still morning. Great to see how much larger the Antarctic Shag chicks had grown. After the landing we headed back north - some good whale watching was had in the Gerlache Straight, though maybe not as plentiful as on some occasions. We made good time and were up not too far from the Antarctic Sound first thing in the morning. However it wasn't long before the fog came in. And that certainly changed the picture. Our landing at Brown Bluff had to be put back until 5pm - however we made it then and it was cracking. Adelie and Gentoo Penguins everywhere. It was magical. Damp at first, but then clearing into an excellent evening. The light was beautiful and most people enjoyed the Weddell Seal close to the beach as well as the Leopard Seal hunting in its stealthy manor. Near the end of the landing a young Adelie decided to swim out and away from the rookery - total madness - the Giant Petrels soon realised there was some sort of a meal displayed - they tired of it though it is a pretty gruesome sight seeing how they ate parts of the bird whilst it was still trying to get away..... Thursday 29th found us up at Elephant Island - and the weather was excellent - everyone seemed to thoroughly enjoy the Zodiac cruise at Cape Lookout - Macaroni Penguins were present and there were at least 72 Elephant Seals hauled out on the beach - not an easy place to land - the swell can be tricky on even the calmest of days. After the stop off we headed on up the side of the Island, passing Cape Valentine, though by the time we got to Point Wild the fog had come back blanketing our view. The fog was still with us the following morning (Friday 30th), obviously reducing the seabird watching considerably, though it lifted in the afternoon to allow us all to enjoy a reasonable variety of species. Good to see so many Soft-plumaged Petrels - which remained with us, of and on, for the next few days. Saturday 31st was a 'cracker'. Not only for the bird species we saw, but also the cetaceans. Hourglass Dolphins and Southern Right Whale definitely early in the day highlights, but then what about the bird sightings.... The amount of Diving Petrels as we came up towards the Willis Islands (South Georgia) were just stunning - they were everywhere (probably mainly Common as the South Georgian population is quite small - 3to4 million pairs of Common as opposed to just 50 thousand South Georgian). And Antarctic Prions also showing well - there are some 22 million pairs of Antarctic Prions compared to just 1 thousand pairs of Fairy Prions - that is a 1 in 22,000 chance of seeing a Fairy and we did.... Cruising round the islands was magical and seeing Bird Island from the southern side!! very special!! We could even see some Wandering Albatrosses 'gamming' (displaying) on top of one of the ridges - South Georgia is such an outstanding place: totally magical, awesome, spectacular, stunning - words are totally inadequate. Sunday 1st February, and we then had our 'first of the season' landing on South Georgia. St Andrew's Bay - stunning sunrise, amazing setting and 100,000 pairs of King Penguin. How on earth can one find words to describe the spectacle that we met as we landed in the Bay. Pictures - Paintings/Photographs - hopeless. The sounds and smells, the wind, the water, the backdrop with Elephant Seals and Fur Seals on the beach.... Reindeer wandering round at the back of the beach - and KINGS, more KINGS and more, more KINGS - It must be one of those sights that almost haunts one - STAGGERING, STUNNING, AWESOME, AMAZING, COOL - it just 'BLOWS ONES MIND AWAY'. WOW, WOW, WOW - a privilege to witness this wildlife spectacle of seriously immense proportions and I can't exaggerate....... Seems almost trivial that we also enjoyed a Perihelion around the sun - warning of the threatening weather that was to come...

Macaroni Penguin

In the afternoon we Zodiac cruised Hercules Bay - a Macaroni Penguin breeding site - the wind got up, which was a pain as the operation had to be called off (for the obvious safety reasons). Macaronis always breed in such awkward locations - lovely birds though.

We then moved to Husvik Bay to anchor for the night - ready for the Stromness visit the following morning. During the evening and night, it rained heavily and we had a serious 'bird strike' with a lot of birds landing on deck (see below). The birds were rescued, dried and cared for overnight and then released after dawn. On Monday 2nd we visited the Stromness Whaling Station and walked up to the waterfall - made famous by Shackleton and his men who had had to climb down the same waterfall as they made their way to Stromness for help in 1916. Lots of Fur Seals on the beach - most enjoyable. We then left Stromness and headed round the corner to Grytviken - great afternoon - I just loved watching the Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses flying into their nest sites - and as for the Elephant Seals - they are magic... well, guttural grumpy lumps anyway. Plenty of South Georgia Pintail - they really are tame and the only duck species to eat carrion (need to survive the winters). It was a great visit - super day. On Tuesday 3rd we were moving north-west heading for the Falklands. The last landing had to be cancelled due to the weather which was deteriorating rapidly. By the afternoon we were in a force 10 gale - and the situation was not helped when a rogue 40ft wave hit us on the Port (left) side causing some damage in the Restaurant and a number of windows broken (repaired in Stanley). Wednesday 4th the weather had improved significantly - much more comfortable and plenty of bird-watching as we were at sea all day.

We arrived into Stanley at lunchtime on Thursday 5th - plenty to see and enjoy with everyone departing for various excursions around Stanley. This continued on Friday 6th with a free day in and around Stanley - many headed out to Gypsy Cove (excellent local wildlife area) - the wildlife list below shows the diversity of species seen by all. We left Stanley just after 5pm and headed south-west for Ushuaia - Saturday 7th, our last day at sea, was beautiful - calm and sunny. And for those early risers, what a treat with the most spectacular display of 178+ Long-finned Pilot Whales with Hourglass Dolphins mixed amongst them - what a great way to end off a STUNNING and SPECTACULAR southern visit. So it is Ushuaia in the early morning and then back out on the last of this season's cruises - MAGIC STUFF.....

Light-mantled Sooty Albatross

Saturday 24th January 2009. The Drake - southbound.
BIRDS: Wandering Albatross; Northern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Blue Petrel; Prion sp.; Magellanic Diving Petrel (on deck 2pm released); Wilson’s Storm Petrel. MAMMAL: Dolphin sp.

Hour-glass Dolphins

Sunday 25th January 2009. Whalers Bay, Deception Island. 
BIRDS: Chinstrap Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel (+white morph); White-chinned Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Cape Petrel; Blue Petrel; Antarctic Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern: MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Minke Whale; Weddell Seal; Antarctic Fur Seal.

Monday 26th January 2009. Waterboat Point and Plenau Channel: Furthest South - S 65 12.850 W 064 11.014.
BIRDS: Chinstrap Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Adelie Penguin; Southern Giant Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Snow Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Snowy Sheathbill; South Polar Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Minke Whale; Leopard Seal; Crabeater Seal; Weddell Seal.

Tuesday 27th January 2009. Port Lockroy and Jougla Point (Mt. Francais 9256ft (2822m); Mt. Luigi 4706ft (1435m)).
BIRDS: Chinstrap Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Adelie Penguin; Southern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Minke Whale; Killer Whale; Leopard Seal. OTHER: Springtails (Collembola).

Wednesday 28th January 2009. Antarctic Sound and Brown Bluff. 2444ft extinct volcano 20,000 Adelie Penguins and a few hundred Gentoo Penguins.
BIRDS: Chinstrap Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Adelie Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel (+white morph); White-chinned Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Cape Petrel; Snow Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Antarctic Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Leopard Seal; Weddell Seal; Antarctic Fur Seal.

Thursday 29th January 2009. Cape Lookout, Elephant Island.
BIRDS: Chinstrap Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Macaroni Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Northern Giant Petrel; Southern Giant Petrel (+white morph); White-chinned Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Cape Petrel; Snow Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Whale sp.; Elephant Seal (count 72 individuals); Weddell Seal; Antarctic Fur Seal.

Friday 30th January 2009. At Sea Day 1 from Elephant Island.  
BIRDS: Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Northern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Cape Petrel; Antarctic Prion; Blue Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Diving Petrel sp. MAMMAL: Whale sp.; Antarctic Fur Seal.

Saturday 31st January 2009. At Sea Day 2 from Elephant Island.
BIRDS: King Penguin; Macaroni Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Southern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Northern Giant Petrel; Southern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Snow Petrel; Great Shearwater; Antarctic Prion; Fairy Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Diving Petrel sp.; South Georgia Pintail; South Georgia Shag; Brown Skua. MAMMAL: Southern Right Whale; Hourglass Dolphin; Antarctic Fur Seal; Elephant Seal.

Sunday 1st February 2009. St Andrew’s, South Georgia.
BIRDS: King Penguin; Macaroni Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Chinstrap Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Northern Giant Petrel; Southern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; Antarctic Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Common Diving Petrel; Snowy Sheathbill; South Georgia Pintail; South Georgia Shag; Brown Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMALS: Minke Whale; Humpback Whale; Antarctic Fur Seal; Elephant Seal; Reindeer.
Overnight: Saturday 31st January to Sunday 1st February 2009. Common Diving Petrel Wing 129mm Weight 145grams.

Monday 2nd February 2009. Grytviken, South Georgia.
BIRDS: King Penguin; Macaroni Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Snow Petrel; Antarctic Prion; Blue Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Common Diving Petrel; South Georgia Diving Petrel; Snowy Sheathbill; South Georgia Pintail; South Georgia Shag; Brown Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Antarctic Fur Seal; Elephant Seal.
Overnight: Monday 1st to Tuesday 2nd February 2009
Birds Alive 280: Birds Dead 17. Bird Biometrics taken of alive birds (Max Cord Wing in mm and Weight in grams)
ANTARCTIC PRION: (70 birds) Average Wing mm: 193.7. Weight grams: 152.1 (Max Wing 202 Min Wing 186: Max Weight 195 Min Weight 125) (+1 dead). 
BUE PETREL: (2 birds) Average Wing mm: 220.5. Weight grams 180 (Max Wing 222 Min Wing 219: Max Weight 180 Min Weight 180).
SOUTH GEORGIA DIVING PETREL:(148 birds) Average Wing mm: 119.2. Weight grams: 114.6 (Max Wing 128 Min Wing 111: Max Weight 125 Min Weight 109) (+16 dead)
COMMON DIVING PETREL: (3 birds) Average Wing mm: 124.66. Weight grams: 133. (Max Wing 130 Min Wing 120: Max Weight 150 Min Weight 119).
WILSON’S STORM PETREL: (8 birds) Average Wing mm: 154.1. Weight grams: 33.3 (Max Wing 162 Min Wing 149: Max Weight 41 Min Weight 29).
BLACK-BELLIED STORM PETREL: (49 birds) Average Wing mm: 170.2. Weight grams: 52.9 (Max Wing 183 Min Wing 162: Max Weight 61 Min Weight 40).

Tuesday 3rd February 2009. Day 1 to Falklands. 0755hrs – 100s birds congregating on probable Killer Whale kill 
BIRDS: Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Northern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Antarctic Prion; Blue Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; South Georgia Diving Petrel; MAMMAL: Antarctic Fur Seal; Killer Whale.
Overnight: Tuesday 2nd/Wednesday 3rd February 2009. 3 Birds on Deck. South Georgia Diving Petrel Wing 123mm Weight 95grams. Blue Petrel Wing 215mm Weight 147grams & Wing 223mm Weight 150grams

Wednesday 4th February 2009. Day 2 to Falklands.
BIRDS: Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Northern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Soft-plumaged Petrel; White-headed Petrel; Antarctic Prion; Thin-billed Prion. MAMMAL: None recorded – keep looking folks.

Thursday 5th February 2009. Stanley, Falkland Islands.
BIRDS: White-tufted Grebe; Gentoo Penguin; Magellanic Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Southern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Northern Giant Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Blue Petrel; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Imperial Shag; Rock Shag; Black-crowned Night Heron; Kelp Goose; Upland Goose; Falklands Flightless Steamer Duck; Flying Steamer Duck; Crested Duck; Turkey Vulture; Red-backed (Variable) Hawk; Southern Black-backed Gull; Dolphin Gull; Falklands Skua; South American Tern; Southern Lapwing; Rufous-chested Dotterel; Magellanic Oystercatcher; Blackish Oystercatcher; Dark-faced Ground Tyrant; Long-tailed Meadow-lark; Falklands Thrush; Grass Wren; Black-throated Finch; House Sparrow. MAMMAL: Sei Whale; Minke Whale; Commerson’s Dolphin; Peale’s Dolphin.
Overnight: Wednesday 4th to Thursday 5th February 2009. Blue Petrel Wing 224mm Weight 147 grams.

Friday 6th February 2009. Stanley, Falkland Islands Day 2.
BIRDS: Gentoo Penguin; Magellanic Penguin; Rockhopper Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; White-chinned Petrel; Thin-billed Prion; Snowy Sheathbill; Imperial Shag; Rock Shag; Black-crowned Night Heron; Kelp Goose; Upland Goose; Falklands Flightless Steamer Duck; Crested Duck; Speckled Teal; Turkey Vulture (one with yellow coloured tag 116); Red-backed (Variable) Hawk; Crested Caracara; Southern Black-backed Gull; Dolphin Gull; Brown-hooded Gull; Falklands Skua; South American Tern; Southern Lapwing; Rufous-chested Dotterel; Two-banded Plover; Falklands Snipe; Magellanic Oystercatcher; Blackish Oystercatcher; Baird’s Sandpiper; White-rumped Sandpiper; Dark-faced Ground Tyrant; Long-tailed Meadow-lark; Falklands Thrush; Tussock Bird; Grass Wren; Black-throated Finch; Black-chinned Siskin; House Sparrow. MAMMAL: Sei Whale; Peale’s Dolphin; South American Sea Lion; South American Fur Seal.
 
Saturday 7th February 2009. At Sea to Ushuaia.
BIRDS: Wandering Albatross; Magellanic Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Sooty Shearwater; White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Great Shearwater; Thin-billed Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Grey-backed Storm Petrel; Southern Black-backed Gull; South American Tern. MAMMAL: Long-finned Pilot Whale (178+); Hourglass Dolphin.
Overnight: Friday 6th to Saturday 7th February 2009. Grey-backed Storm Petrel Wing 139. Weight 32 grams.