Cruising To the far edge of the World

Wandering Albatross at dawn

The Cruise was from the 9th to22nd January 2009 on Spirit of Adventure (Saga Shipping). We arrived in Buenos Aires on the lunchtime of Thursday 8th January and were collected and driven straight to the docks – a fifty minute run at break-neck speed in an out of the mid-day traffic – ‘hairy’ hardly describes it adequately. After the initial check-in formalities (even having to open one of our cases to clarify that the suspicious object picked up by the scanners was a G.P.S.) we were soon back on board the M.V. Spirit of Adventure and among friends – old and new. Those long distance flights really do take it out of one – yes a necessity, but I can’t say I am enamoured – to add to that Iberian Airways are really not much to write home about……… Mind you, having come from a cold, depressing and dreary Dublin to a hot, bright and bustling Buenos Aires!!! – the spirits were already soaring. the next couple of hours were spent unpacking and sorting out a variety of pre-departure jobs – we sailed at 6pm – Black-crowned Night Heron and Olivaceous Cormorant on the breakwater, with plenty of Southern Black-backed Gulls and Brown Hooded Gulls accompanying us out into the River Plate…. The Falkland Islands and Antarctica here we come…  Yes a good season is in store, I just feel it in my bones… On Friday the 9th - on deck before 6am in time to see the hills of Uruguay disappearing from view – still in the wider area of the general entrance to the River Plate, being around forty miles out from land. Bird-wise it was quiet to start with, though after the first couple White-chinned Petrels noted, two Speckled Petrels came in close to the stern of the ship – OH MAGIC – they are just spectacular birds and, as with last year, the excitement of seeing them so early on the first day ertainly raised our expectations…. However they were not to be seen again – this in total contrast to last year when so many were seen over those first days to the Falkland Islands. Having said that – we were totally spoilt with the number of Yellow-nosed Albatrosses ….. How a season can be so different. In the afternoon a Grassland Sparrow was found on the upper decks – looked like a young bird (very tame, soft plumage) and had obviously joined the ship whilst we were sailing down the River during the night – almost certainly attracted by the lights. By the evening this bird didn’t look too well, tough the following morning it had gone – sadly most probably doomed to a watery grave. Back-deck bird-watching on Saturday 10th was excellent with good numbers of South Atlantic birds seen throughout the day – loads more Yellow-nosed Albatrosses and plenty of Atlantic Petrels. There were still a few grass moths on board and an Ichneumon fly was noted on the Bridge Deck. That evening’s sunset was ‘STUNNING’…. Sunday 11th was another excellent day for bird-watchers – plenty of Wandering Albatrosses flying behind the ship and more Soft-plumaged Petrels to enjoy. Grey-headed Albatross also seen on a couple of occasions – they really are just amazing birds with the soft dove grey head and yellow markings on the bill adding to such a spectacularly ‘neat’ colour combination. Monday 12th I was on deck at 4am to enjoy our approach into the Falkland Island complex and West Point Island – our first landing – the display of Thin-billed Prions flying over the sea was totally spectacular – 100s upon 100s of these small seabirds flying everywhere. There were good numbers of Magellanic Penguins in the water and, of course, Imperial and Rock Shags flying past the ship. A Snowy Sheathbill ‘buzzed’ the back deck (must have been a non-breeder as we were not really expecting them until Antarctica – more interesting signs!!). West Point was brilliant – the weather beautiful – blue sky, warm with not too much wind - and the Black-browed Albatrosses and Rockhopper Penguins were, as ever, a treat to behold. There are 2100 pairs of Black-browed and 500 pairs of Rockhopper at this site – the sounds and smells can’t be described – it is such a magical place. In the afternoon we headed on to our next landing, the adjacent Island – Grave Cove. Now I know where all the Striated Caracaras have gone – West Point always had so many of these rare birds of prey, but in the last couple of years they have appeared in much smaller numbers – however Grave Cove had them everywhere. Grave Cove has the largest Gentoo Penguin colony in the Falkland Islands (at the last survey 4100 pairs) so obviously a great attraction for predatory species – Turkey Vultures were more in evidence and there were good numbers of Dolphin Gulls also present (quite a crowd of Striated Caracaras were at the top of the site, near the fence, feeding on a dead Gentoo – constant changing and jockeying for feeding position in the melee). Misfortune for one feeds others in need – part of the processes of the natural world – a harsh reality – ‘eat or be eaten’. It was almost strange to see so many Gentoos surrounded by grass and intermixed with the odd sheep walking through – more so for our Expedition Team, who are so familiar with Gentoos in Antarctica and the ice/snow/rocky/stone habitats one has become used to seeing them in. Natural here though and, of course, they breed earlier in the Falklands so the chicks were significantly larger than those we were to see and saw in Antarctica. Checking the decks at 4am on Tuesday 13th, I found a Magellanic Diving Petrel and a Grey-rumped Storm Petrel had both taken refuge on board (it was a damp and misty night) – measurements and photographs were taken (see below in Daily Lists) and both birds safely released after being dried out. Our landing was at Carcass Island where the vast majority of us landed on the beach and then walked along the shoreline, then up through the Tussock Grass and along the coastal path to the settlement two and a half miles away. The mist was hanging over the Island for much of the day, but it certainly didn’t dampen the spirits nor, for that matter, reduce the quantity and quality of the sightings – WOW what a amazing place. Tussock Birds even walking on my boots (and many others), perching on my back pack (and I was wearing it); Falklands Snipe and Magellanic Oystercatchers just so tame (the call of those Oystercatchers is totally evocative); Gentoo and Magellanic Penguins; Cobb’s Wren within yards (these really are quite rare now); Black-chinned Siskin feeding young everywhere - this is a rat and cat free island and IT SHOWS…... Brilliant morning, superb birding - somehow I must get back – and on top of all this they treated us to teas, coffees and home cooked cakes at the settlement….. In the afternoon we sailed for Stanley (the need to bunker for fuel affecting the  timing of various operations) – fog persisted and at just after midnight I was called down to the Ship Reception as a bird had been found on deck. Turned out to be a very wet Wilson’s Storm Petrel – the hair dryer came into its own (obviously with special care); measurements were taken and it was successfully released. A further check of the decks produced no more birds. Wednesday 14th was spent in Stanley with some birding near Pembroke Lighthouse and a visit to Gipsy Cove – the young Black-crowned Night-herons were a bonus and I was fascinated to watch an adult Magellanic Penguin working on the preen gland of its chick – seemed to be trying to show the chick what to do – certainly something I had not seen before (and, a bonus, the Upland Goose pâté, in the Malvinas Hotel in Stanley’s Main Street, is delicious – a real ‘must’). We headed south in the evening and were treated to good displays of Sooty Shearwaters in the bay – not as many as one can expect just before dusk, but still most enjoyable. Thursday 15th we were at sea – great birding with good numbers of Wandering Albatrosses and some excellent numbers of Soft-plumaged Petrels – just that bit further south than Atlantic Petrels (well in umbers).

Rockhopper Penguin

Minke and Sei Whales noted during the day. We crossed the Polar Front (Convergence) between 5pm and 7pm. Friday 16th we were also at sea with more good birding – we enjoyed; hundreds of Cape Petrels, plenty of Southern Fulmars and many more whale sightings – Humpback, Sei and Minke seen – and, at last, icebergs – Antarctica we are back…… Saturday 17th we found ourselves sailing down the Gerlache Straight and into the Neumayer Channel. The weather was ‘stunning’ with glorious sun, flat calm waters, amazing reflections and Humpback Whales everywhere. We arrived into Paradise Harbour in good time and commenced the landing at Waterboat Point - the Chilean Gonzalez Videla Station. There are 2480 pairs of Gentoo Penguins at this site and they certainly ‘did us proud’. Most of us saw at least one of the three ‘brown’ Gentoos that are present this year. Not as many Skuas and Sheathbills as I would normally expect (maybe a bit early in the season), but ‘What a Great Landing – stunning’. The day was not over either as after lunch we did a Zodiac cruise around the Paradise Bay – highlights…. Well the sure peacefulness, glorious sunshine, flat calm conditions and the Minke Whales…. Turning off the Zodiac engine and listening to ‘the sounds of Antarctica’, an additional bonus. Sunday 18th was a very different kettle of fish weatherwise – damp and overcast, plenty of fog and more wind. First thing in the morning we were at the entrance to the Lemaire Channel – a number of Humpback Whales in the locality – some of us on the back deck were rewarded with a Humpback ‘breaching’ three times and then lying on its back and ‘tail slapping’ also three times – just spectacular views and so exciting. Unfortunately we were unable to get down the Lemaire (our furthest south point – see below) so headed back north and onto our next landing at Port Lockroy (the British Base). The weather stayed uncomfortable for the day, but everyone made the landing at Port Lockroy and then went on to visit the Gentoo site at Jougla Point. There were plenty of Springtails under the rocks, and in some of the pools, to add to the diversity of species seen by everyone. After the landing we headed north back up the Gerlache Straight in preparation for our next day’s landing. Monday 19th found us at the top of the Bransfield Strait and heading into the Antarctic Sound – famous for all the grounded icebergs present (these having come out of the Weddell Sea). Weather was quite beautiful and as we had made such good travel time in the night, a decision was made to change the landing site to Paulet Island. This is situated at the far end of the Antarctic Sound so a wee bit further than the original destination of Brown Bluff - What a fantastic place and a great decision – as we headed towards Paulet a shout from the back deck – Antarctic Petrel – this bird flew towards the back of the ship and over the stern and away – unusual in that these birds are normally found much further south in Antarctica. More of these lovely birds were seen a short while later…... next excitement was then seeing Snow Petrels circling over one of the cliffs as we arrived at Paulet Island. And then there was the smell – 110,000 pairs of Adelie Penguins nesting near the lake and historical hut on Paulet – wow what an aroma – we had arrived…. Paulet Island has the ruins of a hut built by the Nordenskjöld Swedish Antarctic Expedition, the first to overwinter in the Antarctic Peninsula. The ship ‘Antarctic’, under the command of Captain Carl Anton Larsen, got caught in the ice in the Weddell Sea and sank on 12th February 1903 twenty-five miles east of Paulet Island (the Antarctic Sound named after the ship). At that time Larsen’s men sledged for two weeks over the sea ice to Paulet Island and erected the hut where they spent a iserable winter (Ron Naveen. 1997 ‘The Oceanites Site Guide to the Antarctic Peninsula’) – more details about this expedition, its aims and achievements, can be found in this quite excellent guide. Our landing was soon under way – Adelie Penguins everywhere – Antarctic Shags breeding; Snowy Sheathbills visiting the back deck; Cape Petrels and Snow Petrels enjoyed, even the Antarctic Mites found under some of the rocks…. Yes a memorable day was had by all. Tuesday 20th dawned and our weather had changed yet again – it started relatively calm, but not for long. Our location was Penguin Island and by the time the first Zodiac had been out to assess the situation, conditions were deteriorating. The landing had to be called off and we headed back south towards Deception Island. No improvement and by the time we reached Deception, visibility was down to just a couple of hundred yards – reluctantly we had to turn away – too dangerous to attempt an entrance into the caldera and we couldn’t see anything anyway…. The decision was made to head to South America – weather forecasts were not promising and one does not mess with The Drake. We made our way through the South Shetlands and set course for Cape Horn. Wednesday 21st we were in The Drake for the day – weather variable, sea state not too bad for this particular water, but certainly not comfortable for those who classed themselves as not great sailors. The Polar Front was crossed in the morning – so out of the Southern Ocean and back into the South Atlantic. At last we added Blue Petrel to the Cruise List – what on earth is going on with this species? – not as common as one would/should expect at all!! This was the same last year – are they declining? Thursday 22nd at 5am we arrived at Cape Horn and were crossing from the Pacific into the Atlantic – great stuff. It was then a 6 hour run east, to the entrance of the Beagle Channel and our run for Ushuaia. Bright sunshine as we entered the Channel, but it was quite windy. The Beagle Channel is always a treat with its high mountains, with tops covered in snow, and the cover of southern Beech forests so extensive on the slopes. Some were even lucky enough to see the soaring Andean Condor on the starboard side (excellent sighting)   – Yes the 2009 Season has opened in superb style – what will our next cruise bring!! – we are back out of Ushuaia tomorrow, but for now it is have a look round Ushuaia – The end of the World - a meal in Kaupé maybe? – an excellent idea as this will crown a ‘BRILLIANT CRUISE’ with the cuisine of one of the most amazing restaurant’s  in the Southern Hemisphere .

Adelie Penguin

Friday 9th January 2009: At Sea to Falkland Islands: Day  1
BIRDS: Black-browed Albatross; Yellow-nosed Albatross; White-chinned Petrel; Spectacled Petrel; Great Shearwater; Manx Shearwater; Northern Giant Petrel; Arctic (Parasitic) Skua; Grassland Sparrow. MAMMAL: South American Fur Seal; Dolphin sp.. OTHER: Yellow Butterfly sp.; Moth sp..

Black-bellied Storm Petrel

Saturday 10th January 2009: At Sea to Falkland Islands: Day  2
BIRDS: Northern Royal Albatross; Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Yellow-nosed Albatross; Northern Giant Petrel; Southern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Atlantic Petrel; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Great Shearwater; Sooty Shearwater; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Arctic (Parasitic) Skua; Pomarine Skua. MAMMAL: South American Fur Seal; Whale sp.. OTHER: Moth sp.; Ichneumon Fly sp..

Sunday 11th January 2009: At Sea to Falkland Islands: Day  3
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Northern Royal Albatross; Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Northern Giant Petrel; Southern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Cape Petrel; Great Shearwater; Thin-billed Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Grey-backed Storm Petrel; Arctic (Parasitic) Skua; Falklands Skua; MAMMAL: Comerson Dolphin; Whale sp..

Monday 12th January 2009: West Point and Grave Cove, Falkland Islands
BIRDS: Gentoo Penguin; Magellanic Penguin; Rockhopper Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; Thin-billed Prion; Snowy Sheathbill; Imperial Shag; Rock Shag; Kelp Goose; Upland Goose; Ruddy-headed Goose; Feral Goose; Crested Duck; Falklands Flightless Steamer Duck; Turkey Vulture; Red-tailed (Variable) Hawk; Striated Caracara; Southern Black-backed Gull; Dolphin Gull; South American Tern; Falklands Skua; Magellanic Oystercatcher; Black Oystercatcher; Dark-faced Ground Tyrant; Long-tailed Meadow-Lark; Falklands (Correndera) Pipit; Falklands (Austral) Thrush; Grass Wren; Black-chinned Siskin. MAMMAL: Comerson’s Dolphin; South American Fur Seal.
 
Tuesday 13th January 2009: Carcass Island, Falklands
BIRDS: Gentoo Penguin; Magellanic Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Thin-billed Prion; Magellanic Diving Petrel; Grey-backed Storm Petrel; Imperial Shag; Rock Shag; Kelp Goose; Upland Goose; Ruddy-headed Goose; Crested Duck; Falklands Flightless Steamer Duck; Turkey Vulture; Striated Caracara; Peregrine Falcon; Southern Black-backed Gull; Falklands Skua; Magellanic Oystercatcher; Black Oystercatcher; Falklands Snipe; Dark-faced Ground Tyrant; Long-tailed Meadow-Lark; Falklands (Correndera) Pipit; Falklands (Austral) Thrush; Tussock Bird; Cobb’s Wren; Grass Wren; Black-chinned Siskin; Black-throated Finch. MAMMAL: Peal’s Dolphin; South American Sea Lion; South American Fur Seal. OVERNIGHT ON BOARD: Magellanic Diving Petrel (Adult). Weight: 138 grams. Wing (Max Cord): 126mm Bill Depth: 6.8mm. Grey-backed Storm Petrel (Adult). Weight: 30grams. Wing (Max Cord): 131mm. Both released and flew successfully.

Wednesday 14th January 2009: Stanley, Falkland Islands
BIRDS: Gentoo Penguin; Magellanic Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Great Shearwater; Sooty Shearwater; Cape Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Imperial Shag; Olivaceous Cormorant; Rock Shag; Black-crowned Night Heron (with chicks); Kelp Goose; Upland Goose; Falklands Flightless Steamer Duck; Crested Duck; Speckled Teal; Yellow-billed Pintail; Turkey Vulture; Red-backed (Variable) Hawk; Southern Black-backed Gull; Dolphin Gull; Falklands Skua; South American Tern; Magellanic Oystercatcher; Blackish Oystercatcher; Magellanic Snipe; White-rumped Sandpiper; Dark-faced Ground Tyrant; Long-tailed Meadow-lark; Falklands Pipit; Falklands Thrush; Black-throated Finch; Black-chinned Siskin; House Sparrow. MAMMAL: Killer Whale; Comerson’s Dolphin; South American Sea Lion; Brown Hare. OVERNIGHT ON BOARD: Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Adult). Weight: 30 grams. Wing (Max Cord): 149. IN STANLEY: Ocean Yacht – ‘Safran’.

Thursday 15th January 2009: At Sea 1st day from Falklands
BIRDS: Penguin sp. (possible Rockhopper); Wandering Albatross; Northern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey Headed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Northern Giant Petrel; Cape Petrel; Great Shearwater; Sooty Shearwater; White-chinned Petrel; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Thin-billed Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Falklands Brown Skua. MAMMAL: Minke Whale; Sei Whale; Peale’s Dolphin.

Friday 16th January 2009: At Sea 2nd day from Falklands
BIRDS: Chinstrap Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Northern Giant Petrel; Cape Petrel (100s); White-chinned Petrel; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Antarctic Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Minke Whale; Humpback Whale; Sei Whale.

Saturday 17th January 2009: Waterboat Point, Paradise Harbour
BIRDS: Chinstrap Penguin; Gentoo Penguin (+ Brown forms); Southern Giant Petrel; Cape Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Minke Whale; Humpback Whale; Killer Whale (19+); Elephant Seal; Weddell Seal; Leopard Seal.

Sunday 18th January 2009: Lemaire Channel, Port Lockroy and Jougla Point
CRUISE FURTHEST SOUTH: S 65 02.680 W 063 53.700
BIRDS: Gentoo Penguin; Southern Giant Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Minke Whale; Antarctic Fur Seal. OTHERS: Springtails (Collembola).

Monday 19th January 2009: Paulet Island
BIRDS: Adelie Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel (+ white morph); White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Antarctic Petrel; Snow Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Killer Whale; Antarctic Fur Seal; Crabeater Seal. OTHERS: Antarctic Mites.
 
Tuesday 20th January 2009; Bransfield Strait
BIRDS: Chinstrap Penguin; Southern Giant Petrel; Cape Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Antarctic Brown Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Antarctic Fur Seal.
 
Wednesday 21st January 2009: Drake Passage - northbound
BIRDS: Wandering Albatross; Southern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel (+white morph); Cape Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Thin-billed Prion; Blue Petrel; Chilean Skua. MAMMALS:  Whale sp. Dolphin sp..

Thursday 22nd January 2009: Beagle Channel
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; Great Shearwater; Diving Petrel sp.; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Imperial Shag; Andean Condor; Chilean Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Dolphin Gull; South American Tern. MAMMAL: Peale’s Dolphin; South American Fur Seal.